Treatment for Diabetes In Dogs

Once your dog is diagnosed with canine diabetes, your next step is to make sure your dog gets treated. Diabetes worsens if left untreated, so it is necessary for you to ensure that your dog gets proper care and medication.

The following are the different treatment options for you. Depending on the severity of the condition, you may either be advised to use any one, or all of these.

1. Diet

A good diet plan for your dog would be meals that have zero fat and sugar. His meals should be fiber-rich and with high carbohydrate content, or as prescribed by the vet. You can find commercial diabetic dog food in stores and pet shops, or you can also opt to prepare home-made meals for him. As a precaution though, never feed him anything without discussing it with the vet as it may be harmful for your diabetic dog.

2. Weight Loss Program: Exercise

Yes, your dog needs one. Aside from proper nutrition, your dog may need to exercise everyday too. A daily walk would help him burn calories and utilize the excess sugar in the body. Take note however that your dog may be weak because of his condition so you need to be gentle on the exercise program.

3. Medication

the most important treatment of canine diabetes is insulin which comes in two forms. the injectable form which is the preferred and the oral form which is not preferred because the absorbtion of insulin is limited and ineffective.

There is also a type of diabetes which occurs among pregnant female dogs. Since administering medication might be dangerous for her and her pups, the best treatment is diet and exercise.

These 3 types of treatment are necessary to help your diabetic dog manage his condition. While cure is not guaranteed, these treatment options are definitely helpful in lowering down the glucose level which is the goal we need to attain when our dog has diabetes. Consistency is important for diabetes treatment. If not done regularly, your dog’s condition could worsen.

Why Do Dogs chew bones, Bury things and Hate Cats

Dogs can be incredibly mysterious creatures, despite their ordinary domestic appearance. Loving, loyal, silly and fun is the typical description, but their behavior can leave us with a big question – why is my dog doing that?  Dogs are not humans, as much as we would like to believe they are as smart as we are and understand what we are saying. They follow behavioral patterns based on instinctual desires stemming from their wild ancestors who spend every day just trying to survive and procreate.  These behaviors are seen in our silly pets chewing on bones, chasing cats and burying items such as chew toys, raw hides and bones.

 Why do dogs chew bones?

 A dog chewing a bone is not an uncommon sight. Give a dog a bone, and you’ve got a dog that will keep busy for hours. But why? What causes a dog to want to chew on a hard object that offers little to no meat, and why do they want to do it for such long periods of time?The answer is three-fold: fat, instinct and activity.

First, let’s talk about fat, or in this case, marrow. Marrow is found inside the bone, and is made up of mostly fat. This fat is not something to frown about, it’s extremely healthy! The marrow found in bones provides nutrition that your dog simply would not get anywhere else. Marrow contains the building blocks to create red and white blood cells. This is something that those who feed raw, whole foods to their dogs have known all along – bones are packed full of healthy goodness that helps your dog’s body function properly! To top it off, the taste, texture, shape and smell combine to keep your dog interested in this healthy and required activity.

Thousands of years ago, the dog’s ancestors lived day by day, meal by meal.  They scavenged for food, eating carrion if they came across it. They also were effective and quick hunters, eating the whole body of their prey.  This instinct of eating everything, down to the last bone if they could, carried on into your dog’s behavior.  Other aspects of the wolf (and other canids) show up in our dogs from time to time. Pack mentality,howling, and yes, even chewing on bones.

As mentioned, wolves would eat every part of the animal. The reason for this was food was scarce, so they made the meals last as long as possible. In captivity, your domestic pooch may not get the opportunity to live out his full instincts, but he can sure spend hours and hours chewing on that bone. Activity levels in dogs is much different than that of wolves. Wolves are much more sedentary than your common dog, but most dogs have less to do than wolves. A bone is a great way for a dog to meet two of it’s needs while keeping it’s interest. You may provide for him a raw or smoked beef bone with marrow to gnaw on, and you have fulfilled that instinctual desire for hours!

 Why do dogs bury things?

 Just like with chewing on bones, digging and burying things is a very instinctual behavior. Unlike bones, there are two different instincts at play here, dependent on breed. Most breeds like to dig and bury things based off of wild instincts. As mentioned, the dog’s wild counterparts are expert predators. Since food can sometimes be scarce, they tend to kill more than they can eat at once. This often would lead to them preserving their food.

In order to preserve the food, wolves, coyotes and even foxes will dig holes in the ground and bury the carcass or remnants in that hole. Foxes and some coyotes will also mark the spot with urine (another trait that instinctively carried over to our domestic friends) in order to find the food again. Often times, in preparation for harsher climates, wolves will make several of these caches to store food, in hopes that it will last them throughout the time when food is harder to come by. Wolves and coyotes have also been known to dig up the cache of other animals, or even cattle burial spots, in order to get food.

Wild instincts, however, are not all that are in play when it comes to fido digging up the backyard. Several breeds, including Jack Russel Terriers, were bred to dig! Originally, these dogs were trained to dig out burrows of rabbits and other rodents, and were used as either hunting dogs to get food, or as work dogs to remove pests. Those instincts are still in play, and these famous “earth dogs” still show them through and through. With both of these instincts in play, dogs try to find an outlet to act on their natural behaviors. This will often lead to your playful pup burying his toys, bones or other things in the backyard. It could also lead to digging up potted plants (a favorite among earth dogs) or carpet! It is usually best to give the dog a meaningful way to act on his instincts. Some people like to section off part of the backyard that their dogs are allowed to dig in, others will make a dig box (similar to a child’s sand box) for the dog to play in. Others will keep their dog occupied with other instinctively satisfying activities, such as play, walking and yes, even chewing on bones.

Why do dogs hate cats?

 Pop culture is well known to show dogs chasing cats. Cartoon and sitcoms on television portray dogs as aggressive and angry towards the presence of a feline for no real known reason.  Now, you may search online or attend your local shelter to see a dog’s behavior profile as “not good with cats.”  Even nursery rhymes teach us at a young age that dogs hate cats, but why is this?Dogs don’t really hate anything. As a canine, they are incapable of feeling the emotion of hate, and do not comprehend it. They may feel uncomfortable and dislike something, but they cannot actually hate it the way a human would.  Thus, we know that dogs don’t actually hate cats. We turn to science to understand exactly why dogs are so well known to be aggressive towards and chase cats.

Dogs are predators, and were bred for thousands of years to be this way.  That predatory instinct is what makes dogs wonderful hunting companions, guard dogs, and herding dogs.  If something small moves, it is seen as prey and over the generations of selective breeding ha helped to hone in on those instincts to turn them into what we want them to do.  Unfortunately, some dogs take that instinct a little too far and they may see other household pets, especially one as common as a cat as fair game.

Cats are not the only thing dogs see in this manner. Small animals from rodents to birds set off this same instinct in dogs, but just like other unwanted behaviors, this is something that can be trained out or you can offer your dog something they like more than the animal in question. A good way to do this is to use a leash and desensitize them to the cat (or other animal). Eventually, that prey drive will diminish as the dog gets used to the animal being around. While this is going on, you may also want to give them something they enjoy, a toy or even a bone, to keep them occupied and let them know that the cat isn’t as fun to chase as this toy is to play with!

Should instincts be suppressed?

 Dogs have many instinctual activities they partake in, only a few are mentioned here. Scent marking, pack behavior and more are all ingrained, genetically, in your dog. Thousands of years of evolution and selective breeding have conditioned the dog into what it is today. Yes, some instincts can be troublesome, but none should be suppressed. Find healthy, safe ways to help your dog work his instincts, and you will find a loving, healthy, manageable best friend.

Why do dogs eat grass

Why do dogs eat grass? How many times you have found your dog eating grass, a bit worried and perhaps confused too? Most dog owners must have seen their dog eating grass at least once in their life time. Not just that you might have also heard retching noise followed by vomiting. However, should you be really worried about it? The answer is a big no.

A Common Disorder-Pica
The technical term for this type of disorder in which a  dog eats grass is pica, and this is what happens when the dog eats things that are not termed as food. It sometimes indicates that the dog has some kind of deficiency; however, this is generally when the puppies are bored. One should be rest assured that their dog is not the only one suffering from this disorder.

Eating grass and vomiting is a common practice of dogs. It is completely natural, and can also be observed in wild dogs. Veterinarians do not consider this an abnormal behavior. A survey about dogs eating plants showed that grass is the plant most commonly eaten by dogs with this disorder.

Why do dogs eat grass?

Although even veterinary experts cannot give the exact reasons for such behavior of dogs, some of the most believed of those include

• A few experts are of the view that dogs eat grass to make themselves feel better when they are unwell. However, the idea is disputed by many by saying that dogs do not have the wisdom to use grass as a remedy. Also, careful analysis shows most dogs are not unwell before eating grass.

• Other Experts believe that the reason for this behavior can be a natural. They might do this to treat intestinal worms or parasites and improve digestion in turn. This may be a behavior inherited from the ancestors.

• Another simple reason that can be concluded is that a dog simply likes the taste of grass. It is suggested that this taste reminds them of their prey. The prey of dog mainly consists of herbivores and there is undigested plant matter in their stomach. It is possible that eating grass is reminiscent of the taste of its natural prey.

• Another reason may be that they are fulfilling certain nutritional needs which are not met. However, this reason is dismissed by most vets.

Should the dog be stopped from eating grass?

Although most vets agree that grass is not harmful for dogs but they should still be stopped in case the lawn has been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides. These are generally used in lawns and can be harmful for the dog if ingested. They can lead to pet poisoning. It is important to stop dogs from grazing in lawns that have been freshly treated with chemicals. You can allow them to graze in lawns that are provided with some doggy grass free from any kind of chemicals. Be careful to not walk them in lawns that have been treated using toxic substances.

The important point to note here is that if the dog does this on regular basis, it is important to consult a vet and get this behavior checked. The dog may be suffering from some gastrointestinal problems. Normally, grass passes down the dog’s digestive tract easily; however, there are a few things that should be taken care of. Thick stemmed and non- cultivated grass may have barbs that can cut dog’s esophagus. This may also result in the presence of some blood in the dog’s vomit.

How should the dog be stopped from eating grass?

Here are a few points that if kept in mind can prevent a dog from eating grass.

• The owner of dog should ensure that it is getting enough exercise. Try to engage it in interesting activities like Frisbee tossing or playing some other interesting and interactive game. You can also buy chew toy to keep him busy. The main motive behind these things is that the dog should be kept occupied in something or the other to prevent it from getting bored.

• If however you feel that the dog is eating grass due to nutritional deficiency then switch to a food which is better. A food rich in fiber can help alleviate the problem.

how to train your dog to sit

You can ask that your dog sit while preparing its meal, so that it is not jumping and dancing everywhere.  When you have people over to visit you can ask your canine friend to sit and know he will be observing everyone and everything going on.  The command “sit” is used in combination with a number of other commands as well.  Again, you, the trainer, will be using verbal, hand and body signals simultaneously.
The verbal signal is much like that for heeling; “Jenny, sit.”
The hand signal is the right hand, with thumb touching the index and media fingers (the first two fingers).  The thumb and fingers point upwards, almost as if you were holding a treat in your hand.  You bring this signal from your elbow at a slightly down angle up to your waist.
The dog can either be facing you, which to begin with may be easier, or the dog can be on your left side in the heel position.
I wish to stress that with a puppy less, more often, is a tried and true method of training.  Their attention spans are not that of an adult human, so try to keep it interesting and challenging for you both.
While training, the training collar and leash are in use exclusively.  Give the command, and gently pull up on the collar while at the same time pushing down on the rear.  When the dog sits, praise enthusiastically.  Once the puppy/dog gets the idea, combine the command “sit” with the command “heel”.
It is best to start out right from the beginning to teach your dog to “sit square”, when starting the heel.  By this we mean that the dog’s body is parallel to yours, and is not slumped over to one side or the other.  The dog is at attention, ready for your every command.  Then you can expand this to whenever you stop, the dog goes immediately to “sit” without a verbal command.  You may even wish to occasionally tie the leash to your left side, at waist level, and have the dog follow you everywhere you go for a few hours.  This is also an attention trainer, and also increases the bond between you and your dog.
Just a note here, be gentle in handling a dog’s head when praising and petting him.  A dog’s ears really are sensitive.  Just patting on his chest and stroking him is sufficient for his enjoyment.

how to teach a dog to stay

The  “stay” command is usually used in combination with the commands for sit, stand and down. This command is useful should your dog be eminent danger by crossing a busy street, should he get loose by some means. It is also useful when you are teaching your dog not to jump all over visitors. By giving your canine the command to sit and stay, you are allowing the guests to initiate the greeting if they choose to do so. Continue reading

TRAINING EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR PUPPY

When shopping for your new puppy, or for that special dog, we are overwhelmed by the selection, variations, colors and types of equipment (never mind, the toys) that are available. Your dog’s needs in reality, are very simple, but not always, inexpensive. Much depends on whether you have working, conformation, agility or obedience training in mind for your dog. Perhaps all you want to have is a loving, friendly, but trained, canine member of the family. The following article is designed to help you get started.
For the purpose of simplicity, we will assume you’re starting off with a puppy. If you have an older, adopted or rescued, dog you may still wish to read through the whole article for some helpful hints.

Collars and Leashes

One of the first purchases you will need to make for your dog, is a collar and leash. In reality, you may wish to purchase two of each. One collar and leash set for going for a walk, potty calls and play time. The second set used strictly for training purposes. This is a way of telling your dog that this can be fun time, or in the case of the second set, a time to be serious, and pay attention. For the purposes of walking, potty calls, play time, etc., you’ll probably only need a simple nylon, or lightweight leather, collar. Alot depends on the breed, size, and temperament of the dog. Also, a four foot walking leash to go with the collar. Please, Please, Please. Check your puppy’s collar for tightness about the neck often. He will be growing, and the collar will get tighter. If you can easily slip a finger in-between the collar and the neck of your dog, that is a good fit, and the dog will not suddenly slip out of the collar and run after whatever. One of the most heart-rending experiences I ever had working at a vet’s office, was to have a dog brought in, and the vet had to cut the dog’s skin away from a collar that had embedded itself into the animal’s neck. The owner “forgot” the dog had a collar on.
When there are going to be training sessions, the second set is put into action. This set should be used every day. Dogs learn by repetition. They want to please you. If the dog is a member of a family (more than one person) only one person should be doing the training. The other members of the family reinforce what is learned in training sessions, by using the same commands and hand signals, and having the same expectations. There are many schools of thought about a training collar. Some people use a leather collar for training, and the nylon collar for other times. Many use a “choke” collar for training. The “choke” collar must be used judiciously. The only time it chokes the dog, is when it is placed on the dog’s neck incorrectly. The idea behind the choke collar is to give immediate correction and release. The author suggests before using a choke collar on a puppy, use it on yourself first. Practice pulling on the choke collar wrapped about your wrist, that way you know how it feels, and how much pressure you’re willing to apply.
To properly put a choke collar on any dog, first you drop the chain through one end loop. With the dog facing you, the chain and loop will form the letter “P” (for puppy), place it in this position over the dog’s head. With the dog on your left side, the chain will come over the dog’s neck, with the sliding ring in proximity to the dog’s right ear, or right neck side. In this position, when you “pop” the leash (this is only a short jerk of the leash) the chain will come up under his throat, and immediately will release when you do; however, if the chain is not correctly positioned, the collar will not release, and will choke the dog.
For the toy breeds, many owners do not collar these dogs when they are indoors. When the dog is taken outside a simple “martingale” collar is used. Martingale collars are great collars for training and showing. They are made of round nylon construction, so there is no damage to the hair around the neck, and provide even pressure to the dog’s neck rather then pulling and yanking at the throat. These collars allow for instant correction and release.

Measuring Your Dog For A Collar

To measure your dog’s neck, simply take a tape measure , place it around the neck of your dog, allowing sufficient room for two of your fingers to be placed flat against the neck and under the tape measure. When shopping for the collar, be sure to take the tape measure with you. Some collar manufacturers measure the collar from tip to tip, while others will measure from buckle to center hole, and still others, will measure from buckle to last hole. If you are buying for a puppy allow some room for growth, leave two holes for growth. Any longer than this, the puppy will more than likely chew the end of the collar off.

Leashes

For ordinary walking your dog, a four foot leash is usually sufficient. This will aid in teaching your dog to heel, this is for reinforcement of training. For actual training, a six foot leash is recommended. The six foot length helps with the down, sit and stay commands.
Again, the choice of materials and colors are up to you. Take into consideration the breed and temperament of your dog, if it’s a large, muscular dog a skinny little nylon collar and leash probably will not last long. A spiked, heavy leather collar on a poodle will not do, even if it matches the dog’s personality. There are many choices available to you, have fun.

how to crate train a puppy

Crate training is a wonderful tool for you and a great way to satisfy a dog’s natural denning instincts. If it is done the right way your dog will cherish his/her retreat and you will quickly see the benefits of managing certain situations. Dogs do not like to soil where they rest or sleep, so the crate will allow you to create a schedule. They learn control and not just to go potty whenever they get the urge. It is also great for traveling purposes.

Here are a few simple tips to help you crate train your dog or puppy.

1. Do not try to crate train a puppy that is under 9 weeks of age. They do not have the proper control over their bladder and bowel movements. Also, a dog at that age can eliminate 10-12 times and day and can not be expected to hold it.

2. A puppy should not be wearing a collar when in the crate. If it is absolutely necessary make sure it is a “break away” collar.

3. Some dogs like a soft blanket in the crate while others will just push it to the side because they prefer a cold hard surface.

4. Have the right age appropriate toys in the crate but no more than 2 at a time.

5. When training a puppy keep the crate in a central location so they do not feel isolated.

6. Do not allow children to play on the crate or inside of it. This is a sanctuary for your dog.

7. Never pull or force your puppy into the crate. Have an edible treat available in the opposite end of the crate and praise your puppy for finding it. You can also try feeding your puppy in the crate. If they are hesitant just start by feeding them right outside then gradually move it closer day by day, eventually having it inside.

8. Take a puppy out every hour until you know it’s elimination schedule. Once you’re sure you know it, put the puppy in the crate 30-45 minutes before you are expecting them to go. This will cause them to hold it until the desired time.

9. If your puppy cries when you shut the door to the crate and you are sure they do not need to potty just remember to keep the crate near you in a central place in your home. They are adjusting and they should not feel isolated. They also may cry if they are lonely or under exercised.

10. At night place the crate by your bed.

11. The crate is not intended for the long term confinement of your puppy. When you will be gone for a while the puppy needs to be in a puppy safe protected area.

12. The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around. When purchasing a crate for a puppy be sure and by one they can successfully grow into.

13. Take your dog to the bathroom immediately after removing from crate.

14. Don’t punish for accidents. When cleaning do not use an ammonia based product this will smell like urine and may encourage them to do it again.

15. The crate should not be used for punishment or for locking a dog or puppy up for long periods of time.

If your puppy is continually eliminating in the crate there could be a legitimate reason for it.

1. The puppy is too young.
2. Eating and drinking too much.
3. The person or place you got the puppy from may have had the puppy in a small space where they were eliminating in the same place they were sleeping, in which case they are used to peeing in confined spaces.
4. The pup may have worms.
5. Other medical issue.9-10 weeks/30-60 minutes

This is a basic guideline showing you how long a puppy should be crated.

9-10 weeks/30-60 minutes
11-14 weeks/1-3 hours
15-16 weeks/3-4 hours
17-weeks/4-6 hours(max)

Fun dog tricks

“Hide”
Your dog hiding his/her eyes with paws.

There are four ways to teach this trick.

  1. Have dog sit. Use a spray bottle and squirt a little mist toward the dogs ear from the front. A dog may react different to this by shaking their head or even running away. When the paw goes up over one eye reward immediately. Repeat. Make sure and use command “hide” every time paw goes up to eye.
  2. Follow the same steps as number one but use air. Blow or use a bottle. Use command “hide” every time paw goes up to eye.
  3. Have dog sit. Use tape (put on your pants first so that it doesn’t stick strongly to dog) and place it underneath the dogs eye. Reward when the dog lifts paw to remove it. Use command “hide” every time paw goes up to eye.
  4. Have dog sit. Take paw and put over eyes while saying command “hide”. Reward and repeat.

“Bow”

Have dog sit. Take treat from nose to floor slowly saying “bow”. Reward immediately and repeat. Later you will be able to stand up and say command. Pace it and only do a few times a day.

“Chase/Spin”

Have dog sit and watch treat. Circle treat around body to motivate spinning and use desired command. Reward and repeat. You will later be able to stand and say command.

“Crawl”

Have dog lay down. Have treat in right hand and use left hand to keep back down. Do not put hand in the center of back. Toward the tail is the best place. Move treat along floor and reward as soon as the dog come toward it. Slowly increase length before treat. You can also use a low table, legs or a sturdy chair.

“Speak”

Have dog sit. Decide on command and hand signal. Have treat in hand and wait for bark. Use both command and hand signal simultaneously so that eventually you can choose between the two. Reward as soon as you hear a “woof”. They will get it eventually.

“Sit Pretty”

Tell your dog to sit. (If your dog does not know how to do this then you have an extra step, follow the directions for sit in Basic Training) Next take a treat and hold it in front of them. Now you take the treat and move it above their head. This will cause them to try to get the treat and make them sit pretty.

how to stop a dog from licking

Dogs have a lot of ways that they express their affection. Licking is one of the most common ways they do this. It is their way of showing that they love you, they missed you or they are just simply happy to be with you. The more you resist their attempts for approval or affection the more they may try and get their point across. Don’t be angry with your dog for licking, after all, if they could tell us they loved us they would.

Simple tips that will help with excessive licking.

Don’t give your dog positive attention or affection when they lick you, it will encourage more licking. Instead have your dog do a trick for you, like “sit” or “lay down”. Once the dog has obeyed you then lavish your dog with the love he/she is wanting. Your dog will soon replace licking with a trick. Be sure and respond with praise and affection when he/she does the trick or he/she will try licking again.

Some small dogs will go lick crazy when they get on your lap. If you allow your dog on your lap more often and try not to make a big fuss over it you may see your dog calm down a great deal. When they are on your lap stay mellow and keep your voice relaxed.

Another option is to pretend as though the licking is hurting you. Crying out or saying a loud “ouch” may do the trick. Dogs are much smarter than we give them credit for. This technique has been very successful because your dog doesn’t want to hurt you, he/she wants to love you.

If your questions are about your dog licking himself or herself excessively then you may want to visit the health concerns portion of the website or talk to your